Hayward H250 ED1 Pool Heater Electronic Ignition

When we bought out house, I wanted a pool, even though I can’t swim. It came with a pool heater, so I was happy about that.. But as fate would have it the only thing that didn’t work, was the pool heater (and the fire pit ) . Before we bought the house, I turned it on and it turned off immediately.

 

The gas line was disconnected at the main with a big warning sign.  After we bought the house, I laid new pipe from the pool heater to the fire pit , cleaned and pressure tested the 1 1/2” line that wasn’t damaged by the trees, the trees paid the price since the leaking gas had killed three of them, which we replaced, the story all came together as we tracked the history, the owners at the time had massive gas bills which is when the leak was discovered., but they just opted to disconnect it. Took me a couple of days to lay the 1/2” pipe for the fire pit.

So once the line was all replaced, time to test the heater again. fire it up, hope shuts off again. The burners weren’t firing up, a few years of disuse and it was filthy..  The nozzles that fire the gas into the heater were blocked, so I got some wire, and cleaned out the nozzles, and cleaned up the dirt elsewhere, still didn’t start, probably air in the gas lines, so a few dozen tries and it started up fine.

It seems unlikely its gas flow, the main pipe is 1 1/2” and gas is only about 6 pressure, so should be plenty and gas pressure is harder to measure, the bigger heaters need at least 1 1/2” all the way to the heater.

When the gas igniter fails a few times, it’ll lock you out for a while.

This is the gas valve and sensor , you could bypass this if you think there is a gas flow issue but only for testing.  TH is marked on the top left, the manual says jump TH –TH , I believe its saying jumper TH on the left, to the bottom left orange. But I am not sure, so I haven’t done this test ( which as it turns out, I now need to do.. )

I’m not sure if my Gas valve is aftermarket or not, I don’t see a similar one anywhere on the Hayward’s parts lists. its marked like a robertshaw.. Aha, I’m pretty sure it’s a White-Rodgers, they use  TH  TH-TR   TR markings.

Yep verified it as being very similar to the  “White Rodgers 36D27 Gas Valve, Type 201” the trim screw is different

 

http://www.emersonclimate.com/Documents/White-Rodgers/sell_sheets/R-3769C_36C_Gas_Brochure.pdf

 

 

 

Here is a useful PDF on how the detection works on the pilot.

http://www.invensyscontrols.com/spaw2/SiteContent/Training%20HEATING%20GAS%20VALVE%20ACTUATORS%20FINAL.pdf

 

 

One of the gas nozzles, you can remove this to clean it, if its really dirty you should but it’s a hassle Spiders love this thing, they get in everywhere and our trees shed like crazy so its always dirty..

 

its easy to remove the whole heater setup

 

The individual nozzles are removable too, for easier cleaning

Retested then it shut down again… .. What next, bypass the flow meter, and it works fine, you can tell if it’s the flow meter usually coz it the system light flickers on and off rapidly.. Turn to the pool filtering system, yep hasn’t been cleaned out in ages, did that waters flowing and the flow meter works again. It’s a really really bad idea to bypass any of these sensors for anything more than troubleshooting.

This is the water flow meter, disconnect the two wires and join them together to bypass it for testing (turn off the system first)

 

This just keeps the microswitch depressed when there is enough flow, you should hear it audibly click at system startup, might take a few seconds to get flow. this can also be adjusted for different flow rates.

So great a few months of the wife enjoying 90o degree pool, then the gas bill came, so it got turned off cept for weekends, a few weeks later. It’d start for 10 minutes, shut off, , turning it off it, shut off immediately, . To me that strikes of a heat issue, this time I called out a pool heater guy recommended by hayward, since I figured maybe it just needs a service.

He comes out , cleans it, tests it, same issue, says its likely the control panel.. My thought is that if it’s a control panel its really repeatable problem, and its part of how the system should work, if not enough heat gets exchanged the  thermistor high/low heat sensors will kick and shut it down, let it cool and it’ll work again, but we’ll see.

Though now after he visited, its no longer booting up for 10 minutes before, its only doing a few seconds again… sigh…

Disconnect the control panel via this connector, the other two wires are the remote thermostats. don’t disconnect them, and don’t fold or bend them too much, they’ll snap

amazon

 this says its the ED1

 

You can bypass all the tests here, jumper the bottom and top connector and it’ll bypass all the sensors, this is just a rough test since it wont tell you which one isn’t working, but it will tell you if the heater is working, but be careful

 

Igniter The rusty screw there holds the ignite mechanism inside. Remove that screw and the wingnut above it ( obscured by the black tube )

I haven’t pulled this part yet, the flame is a bit yellow so maybe a dirty pilot. I did just find another persons (frank lopez/doityouself.com forums) image of it. You can remove it with the one screw at the front, then there is an alignment wingnut on the top side.

 

 

This image is of a millivolt pilot setup, I have the electronic ignition version.

 

The electronic igniter, is much simpler.

the spark gap is meant to be about 3.5mm or 9/64” in ye olde measurements

 

The insulation on this has worn away, and when I removed it to check the gap the wire fell out, so I’ll replace it too, but If the spark is failing to ignite, you’ll hear it constantly firing for a few seconds, (or not at all if the wire isn’t making good contact) the wire was pretty corroded internally so worth changing. I’ve read that when it fails, the heater will try to ignite three times then shut down.

Update: Replacing the ignitor fixed it, the bad wire was making the flame detector think the flame was off.

HAXIGN1931 is the part number for my heater

Clean out the burners with a wire brush too.

 

Correct Flame  ==== Tip of thermocouple or thermopile is 3/8” to 1/2” into pilot flame
Noisy, Lifting, Blowing Flame === High gas pressure or Wrong Pilot Orifice
Lazy Yellow Flame == Clogged primary air opening
Low gas pressure   === Clogged pilot orifice
Wavy Blue Flame ===Draft condition as pilot
Hard Sharp Flame === High gas pressure or Pilot orifice too small
Small Blue Flame == Wrong pilot orifice size or Low gas pressure or Clogged pilot tube

 

 

Remote control instructions

 

This is the United Technologies electronic Controls control panel, its about $125-$180 ish, I’ve seen it on amazon and ebay., the direct spark is the big insulated wire. It’s a 1016-405 Series Direct Spark Igniter, but you need to pay attention to the part number on the white paper sticker, it is a 1016-458 variant. They have different connections for the igniter wire, some are spades, and the terminals are different sizes, also the chip inside is different, The PCB’s are mostly the same , just a few resistors and such inside.

There isn’t a whole lot to go wrong inside, a  couple of high wattage resistors could potentially get bad solder joints,  a relay, but they’re made pretty well. the box just unclips apart.

 

 

Supposedly the LED (left of the orange wire) is , I’ve only seen it RED since it seems if anything trips the whole system shuts down.

  • On – Steady Control operation normal
  • 1 Flash Open Pressure switch, limit switch or flame rollout switch
  • 2 Flashes Pressure switch stuck closed
  • 3 Flashes Ignition / flame sense failure
  • 4 Flashes Repeated flame losses
  • 5 Flashes Internal control fault

Transformer notes for 240V vs 110V systems

 

 

temperature limiter switch, automatic reset

 

Temperature limiter switch, requires a manual reset, part of the kit HAXTLK1930, the replacements seem to be 36TX16s , the L is the temperature  in Fahrenheit

 

high limit thermostat safety, if this trips then filter is clogged, or not enough water flow. rear header, part number HMXHLI2932, its under the rubber boot, there is a drain plug underneath the header. this is the 160F degree limiter. If you mix the rear and front sensors up since they look the same, they’re stamped around the edge, L160F and L135F respectively.

 

The front header hi limit, that ones a 135F trip, HAXHLI1930 its behind the left side access panel.

 

The flow meter tube is on the right side of the front header, this goes to the flow sensor/microswitch sensor

 

Cleaned out underneath the heaters too, a lot of rust and stuff gets down here. I used a shop vacuum, alternating between blow and vacuum.

 

 

The top gets messy too, these metal bits are loose on this heater.

 

Back panel instructions.

 

 

 

Wiring diagram.

 

you can see the in-series fault sensors at the top, limit/, imit. pressure and two temperatures sensors.

 

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